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Reflections on the Art Trip to Bandung

By Peggy Ball

Having grown up in a very small town in Montana (a sparsely populated state in America known for its mountains and wheat ranches), I never had much opportunity to rub shoulders with celebrities. You can imagine my delight in finding during my time in Indonesia that being a member of the Heritage Society has offered a rare opportunity to come into contact with people at the tops of their fields ...and I'm loving it! Case in point is the Contemporary Art Study Group trip to Bandung. I not only met some of the premier contemporary artists in Indonesia, I even got a few autographs!

The discomfort of getting to the 06:00 train to Bandung from Gambir station was quickly forgotten as the train pulled us into the mountains. It's a beautiful trip with some spectacular scenery! Our guide, Daniel, met us at the station and took us directly to the campus of ITB, the venerable Bandung Institute of Technology. Built in the 1920s, it has been preserved as an architectural gem with few "modernizations" to the exterior. It was particularly interesting to visit this campus as many of the artists we were to meet on our trip were graduates of the Institute and returned as professors in the art department. We toured the various art departments and saw a nice selection of student work, proving to us that creativity is alive and well in the youth of today.

After lunch, we went to the museum of painter Pirous. His work is frequently known as luminously textural and abstract, and it was a rare treat to hear him discuss how much of it is inspired by spiritual feelings, nature or by current events. What struck me before as simply beautiful became alive with meaning. He then invited us to his home and studio, a stunning contemporary structure perched on a ridge above Bandung...and designed by his wife! They are an amazingly gracious, talented couple.

We went on to the home and studio of painter Srihadi Sudarsono, a real icon on the art scene and one of my personal favorites. Again, a beautiful property - quiet, tasteful and filled with his wonderful paintings. The studio was buzzing with activity however, mostly coming from him, as he bolted up and down stairs, leading us to see how he operated. Both his physical energy and his willingness to answer our questions seemed limitless, which I found astonishing for a man in his mid-70s. His art is also spiritually driven ...he said he has spent most of his life trying to depict the "essence of things" on canvas, from the spirituality of a temple like Borobudur to the movement of dancers. Srihadi is known sometimes for his very large paintings and we were able to see a fascinating contraption of his design that explained how he could do it - it was a platform replete with ladders, pulleys, cables and a revolving chair that made it possible for him to work freely on large canvases. I got his autograph on a postcard that he gave us as a souvenir... alas, perhaps the only piece signed by him that I'll ever own.

The next morning we were up early and went to the museum of Sujana Kerton, designed and built by him and now managed by his daughter Tjandra. To see the work of one of the fathers of contemporary Indonesian art was quite enlightening. Born in Bandung, Indonesia in 1922, Sudjana Kerton was one of the first Indonesian artists to study abroad, first going to Amsterdam, Paris and later to New York.

He returned to Indonesia in the 1970s where he continued to paint until his death in 1994. During his career, Kerton most often painted scenes of the lives of the common Indonesian people. His good nature and gentle humor was evident in his pieces, even in the more serious themes.

That evening, Nina Taneja had arranged for us to go to the home of long-time friends whom she had known while living in Bandung. We were treated to a fabulous paella dinner and, after, a tour of a creative outdoor restaurant designed and established by his wife. Wonderful hospitality in yet another fabulously designed house ...this was also turning into an architectural trip for the group.

Could it get any better? Well, ya! We went to the museum of Sunaryo...primarily known to many of us for his sensitive paintings of dancers preparing for performance. The museum, however, was exhibiting his abstract works and it was a first time look at his diversity for many of us. We weren't able to meet him, as Sunaryo was away during this time arranging for an exhibition in Jakarta. Our group participated in a charcoal drawing workshop given at the museum by the talented young artist, Rahid. We were later invited to his studio to view his magnificent drawings.

We finished our afternoon with a stop at the Jeihan museum and also visited the studios of Aming D. Rahman (beautiful, sensitive paintings) and Heyi Ma'mum, known for her collages.

Another architectural bonus was in store for us that evening. We'd been invited to the home of friends of Susana Rubio's who had not only designed the home themselves but much of its furniture and cabinetry as well. It was a complex balance of space, form, and color with a unique blend of the ultra-modern with the traditional ...all perfectly set off by their art pieces. We were able to view their personal collection of unusual works by Sunaryo, these using a very different color palette from the reds, whites and blacks we were more familiar with, as well as seeing their superb ceramic pieces. Our enthusiasm for these led our host to arrange for us all to go to the studio of ceramics artist, Hayati.

On Wednesday, we visited the museum housing Popo Iskandar's work. I'd admired his pieces, frequently featuring cat and chicken motifs, but seeing this large collection in person was stunning! The museum is open to the public and worth a visit.

We then went to the home and studio of prolific sculptor Rita Widagdo. Upon meeting her, it was difficult to connect this small, perfectly groomed, soft-spoken woman to the monumental abstract sculptures I'd seen in Jakarta! We were stunned as she began showing us photos from the installation processes for several large pieces around Indonesia... her vast talent includes a considerable knowledge of engineering. We toured her studio, saw her retrospective pieces and others in progress. It was fascinating to see the steps leading from a model to a full-sized piece. Though a woman and a foreigner, she has done so much in her 40 years in Indonesia... including garnering the tremendous respect and support of the Bandung art community.

We then visited the museum, sculpture park and studio of Nyoman Nuarta, a sculptor with social and political concerns contributing to his designs. A gregarious gentleman who is comfortable in the public eye, his studio has been chosen to produce the 22-meter tall statue of Wisnu for the Garuda Wisnu Kencana Foundation in Bali.

Our final stop was a visit to the Barli Museum. We had the honor of meeting Barli Sasmi-tawinata, one of the early giants of Indonesian art. To our delight, he and his lovely wife presented us with a book of his work to keep in our Library.

Works by several artists visited are featured in the Heritage Society's "Art Cards" series, if you'd like to see some examples. We all appreciated the effort that Cobi Wilson and Sharon Ho made in organizing our trip, and the patience shown by our guide Daniel in shepherding around 14 women. We are also indebted to the friends of Nina and Susana for welcoming us into their homes and making our evenings a special extension to the days' inspirations. In thinking back on the graciousness of the artists we met, their awesome works, our new friends, the beauty of Bandung and the wonderful times we had with each other, the only conclusion one can draw is that this was a brilliant trip!

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